Üstad

About

Production

  1. The dough

    The day starts with flour. The dough is kneaded, rested, then rolled out with a wooden pin. How thin the filo goes is judged by eye and by hand; scales are no help here, because flour does not carry the same moisture two days running.

    Dough worked by hand on the steel bench
  2. The layers

    Butter goes on as the layers stack up. This is the step that will not be hurried: spread it unevenly and some layers rise in the oven while others sit down and stick.

    Filo sheets stacked layer on layer in the tray
  3. The syrup

    Syrup is a job of its own. Too thick and it sits on top instead of soaking in; too thin and it takes the crispness away with it. The right answer lives in a narrow gap between the two, and that gap shifts a little every day.

    Trays of syruped baklava in the shop window
  4. The oven

    Trays come out of the oven and go straight to the counter. What needs to rest is left to rest, and what is meant to be eaten hot is sold hot.

    The pastry chef in the production kitchen, the cakes of the day in front